The Great Ocean Road which is possibly Australias best motorcycling route is a dream ride by anybodys measure. Today that dream was a very wet one and windy. It is a pleasure to ride no matter what the weather and time spent on a bike is always far better than time spent sat in a car in my book. So I battled the stormy systems that kept rolling off the Southern Ocean and across Bass Straight as they unloaded heavy rain and squalls along the length of todays ride.
Winter has its benefits and today I was in for a rare treat. I pulled over at a particulary scenic lay-by for a snap and was waved at by the fins of 4 or so frolicking Southern Right Whales. Frolicking might not be quite the correct description of what they were doing, but they seemed happy enough rolling and diving just beyond the breakers quite close to shore. I observed their display from the comfort of the GS with camera poised hoping for the sought after tail shot, but it wasn’t to be.
With the wet conditions today, traction control and ABS were good options to have on the bike. I had the back end break lose briefly on a straight but very slippery road at one stage. The front stayed planted thankfully but as the rear end waggled power was disrupted and control regained thanks to BMWs clever system.
West of Apollo Bay are the famous 12 Apostle limestone formations. I think we are down to 10 nowadays thanks to erosion and it’s not that surprising with the stormy seas they have down here. Their days are certainly numbered, so I would get here soon for a view or flight over them in a helicopter.
My GPS has been playing up today and I don’t have a position for you but I am in Mt Gambier. Tomorrow I will run North and inland through some serious grape country ending up in the Barossa Valley with some luck.
Before leaving Mt Gambier I made a lap of the Blue Lake which is one of 3 volcanic craters in the town. There were lay-bys to stop and appreciate the views and a lookout to peer into the other craters.
The road took me north today which is good as all progress in that direction takes me closer to the Tropic of Capricorn and far better weather.
I passed through an awful lot of vineyards and quite a few wineries which turn the plump fruit into some much appreciated wine.
Barossa Valley is home to many very large and well known wineries. Some resemble oil refineries while others have retained a definite charm and historical presence making a visit quite a worth while experience. Some have their own cooperage where you can witness the barrels being made in the traditional way. A day off here for the group, their 1st, will give them time for a lay-in that morning and a winery tour in the afternoon and maybe even time to wash and check over their bikes!
The road north from Tanunda continues to wind its way through very rural and rolling countryside eventually tightening up as you get in amongst the Flinders Ranges. A definite lack of traffic is noticed and higher speeds can be experimented with, but the police can show up at any time and love to write out a hefty ticket.
I tested the loop through the Flinders National Park which is a stunning route. Wilpena is a nice place for a relaxing cup of something.
The dirt track which takes you through Bunyeroo Gorge is tight, twisting and smooth with occasional rocky sections to keep you up on your pegs as you pick a clean line through the bigger obstacles.
Emerging from the ranges on the northern slopes offers you a magnificent view along them, highlighting their majesty as you step back far enough to take it all in. The road south along the plains is straight but scenic and gives you a taste of the remoteness that is to come in the next few days riding as we head up the Stuart Hwy.
Jeffrey Condon
I head north across the Never Never, just me and my thoughts as I rocket along, trying hard to let go of even them and become one with this great nothingness that is everything.
Len Beadell was the man responsible for opening up the remote parts of Central Western Australia with his small team of men driving a single bulldozer and grader. They created over 30,000kms of tracks along the length of the rocket range for the purpose of retrieving spent missiles to collect data that had been gathered inside of them. The Rocket Range museum is worth a look in town and there is an impressive open air museum to view an assortment of the various rockets that were tested and a few aircraft. Well worth the 7km diversion. There is also a café in the towns Heritage centre but...not a lot else.
