Narooma to Albury

Location: Narooma

Miles: 195

The sun was still crouching somewhere just below the horizon as I re-mounted and rode out of Narooma. The bike mentioned a temperature of 8.5 degrees but this fell away as the road turned inland and dipped to 2.5 and warned of snow. At this stage the sky was clear and stars above me twinkling bright but this warning proved accurate later this day.

Euphoric best describes the feeling early this morning as I was reminded how much I love motorcycling around the world. It really does ignite the soul and I fought back tears and a flurry of emotions as I sped on into the dawn.

The GPS flashed from night view to day with surprising accuracy just as the first fingers of light reached out brushing the hills with autumnal tones. I reached the base of my first climb for the day Brown Mountain, or as the locals call it, Brown Underpants Mountain. Modesty means I can’t confirm or deny if it deserves that title.   I can report that riders of all skill levels will enjoy the ride up the pass and onto the plateau where speeds rise and can be enjoyed as the trees disperse and open rolling fields set the scene.

Entering the Kosciuzsco National Park was a challenge as the older lady ranger pointed out that all vehicles must legally carry chains and that motorcycles can’t be fitted with them so I would have to make a long diversion. I eyed my escape, finger shadowing the starter ready to bolt ahead anyway. I pointed out to her I had off-road tyres fitted especially for this day. She got quite loud and anger surfaced, I remained calm then pointed out that only a few weeks earlier I had ridden a motorcycle to the foot of Mount Everest. She paused then smiled asking where I was from. I told her I was from NZ and she said “well you are all bloody mad, off you go”. I was in and it wasn’t long before the snow was falling quite heavily.

I made it across the pass which wasn’t so slippery, although I did get some strange looks from the Ski instructors riding Skidoos looking on. There were many Roos in the park and at one stage I approached a group at speed and couldn’t lose it quickly enough and found myself riding next to a very large Red who was bounding at a pace. I dreaded what might come as they often just dart into your path. Luckily this one wasn’t this big and he and I are both still alive by being completely stupid.

As I descended the snow became rain and very heavy. Shelter was sought and sealskins and winter gloves were donned. The road dropped me into the Murray valley, sodden and flooded. Smiling farmers waved from Toyotas. I crossed into Victoria only to cross back later. I dipped my toe in the river at Tintaldra and then continued along the steadily drying valley road picking up the pace again enjoying the sweeping bends.

After 516 kms today I rolled into Albury for the night. A good day, slowed slightly by the snow. Tomorrow I hope to pass back over again in another spot south of Bright but it has been snowing heavily and probably still is. Might be impassable.

Jeffrey Condon