Final Entry

Location: Perth (The End)

Miles: 6800

Monkey Mia

 We enter another Unesco world heritage area today. Shark bay is of special significance mainly because it is home to the oldest and original life forms that existed and lead to the existence of all other lifeforms there after. Stromatolites grew from algae approx 1900 million years ago back when oxygen levels were low and thanks to them enriching it we are here today. They can be viewed going about their daily activities at Hamelin Pool. While I was there I visited the old telegraph station which lately has a campground attached and serves tea and scones in the historic building. Very civilised.

 The Day took me up into the Peron Peninsula towards Denham, Australias most westerly town. Then it is a short and pleasant hop east to Monkey Mia famous for its tame yet wild dolphins that come in each morning to be hand fed by the rangers while sometimes 2 or 3 hundred onlookers jostle for a view or a chance to dangle a snapper to them.

I turn and head south again, passing through Carnarvon which is responsible for 70% of Western Australias fruit and veg, thanks to the water supply and fertile soil around the Gascoyne river. There are a lot of fruit outlets attached to farms, I call in to one for breakfast and try a custard apple and black zapote, which tastes like chocolate so breakfast becomes more of a dessert.  It is getting quite populated the further south I go, although Western Australia has only 1.7 million inhabitants and 1.1 of them live in Perth, but towns are becoming more frequent.

Home

I pull in to Dongara for my last night on the road and after doing the rounds of the various hotels find myself at the Priory which used to be a Nunnery and then ladies college and is very atmospheric and interesting. I try hard not to have impure thoughts as I drift off to sleep that night after drinks and a wonderful meal provided by Wayne the manager in the historical bar.

I turn off the North West Coastal highway and hug the coast properly for the final days ride into Perth. The Indian Ocean Drive takes me through several tiny fishing villages where cray-fishing is the main occupation. The high speed Aluminium work boats moored in pristine bays off multi-million dollar mansions testament to the wealth that lies just beneath the surface of these tourquoise waters and the popularity of such fresh sweet crustaceans.

A side road sees me in Nambung national park riding a slightly sandy 4 km circuit surrounded by the Pinnacles limestone formations that sailors regularly mistook for a town while out to sea. The yellow sand is striking and in contrast to the pure white dunes that are found in this area.

I get lucky and the expected detour back to the highway is avoided thanks to a new road only opened a few days earlier. It takes me 30 mins and I’m in Lancelin lunching on the bay. We used to spend days in 4x4s navigating the deep sand and dune country or at low tide cruising up the beach stopping along the way to windsurf and camp out between Lancelin and Cervantes.

 I’m now 130 kms from the end of the ride. 5 weeks has seen me traverse Australia from east to west and south to north. The emotions run high again, in reverse to when I set out from Sydney. Just over 11,000 kms has shown me an awful lot of Australia quite quickly. It has been like, a day in the life of Australia for me, experiencing its many different faces. Yes there are some huge distances to cover but many hidden gems will surprise and delight you at the end and throughout your ride down here.

 It has been a while since I was on a 6 lane highway. This one whisks me in to the centre of Perth quickly and unceremoniously. I sit on a park bench in Kings park and look over the city and Swan river reflecting on the mammoth ride I have just made.

It is intense but achievable and will give you some good stories for a while to come.

The bike has been exceptional. Thank you to BMW Australia in Melbourne for providing it for me. I kept it off the floor for you!

My tyre fitted in Adelaide is now toast which is a reminder of the tough conditions down here and a tyre change mid way for our guys may have to be factored in to our planning.  The bike has scrubbed up really well, if you look closely there is still a bit of the Karijini red dust here and there, but it has earnt that dust. It probably has the more miles on it for this years model than most here in Australia. Many of those miles were hard fought but won thanks to a perfectly suited bike for the conditions. Maybe a bit of crafty riding played a small part also.   It will be difficult to hand it back tomorrow;perhaps I won’t. Maybe I’ll run away and never be seen again but I doubt it. My trusty 1981 R100 version awaits me and is primed ready for adventure. Who knows where it will take me next.


Jeffrey Condon


You can see all the Australian Recce pictures via the 'Discover Our Earth' Facebook Page. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Discover-Our-Earth/124810627556584

Coral Bay

Location: Coral Bay

Miles: 4950

Broome came about during the 1880s after the discovery of  Pinctada Maximus, a very large oyster the size of a dinner plate and the origin of  Mother of Pearl which was used to make buttons in the 1800s.

 The Japanese came here with the diving technology needed to harvest the shell and in the early days were towed underwater behind old sail powered Pearling Luggers. Some of these vessels are on display in the town. Eventually the shell needed to be farmed and its potential for growing pearls recognised. Still today it is the main industry for the town and a couple of months harvesting pearls was enjoyed by myself some 11 years ago.

The town is also well known as the gate-way to the Kimberley and the intrepid head off into this wild un-tamed area with their 4x4s and dinghys in tow. Cable Beach is another main attraction and the climate year round makes it good anytime for a dip or laze in the sun admiring the other attractions.

 Not surprisingly it has taken me 4 days to properly explore and research to ensure the group will make the best of their time here and have the knowledge to do so. If they think more than one night should have been spent here, do not fear as we have something a bit special further south, without the crowds.

Continuing south along the Great Northern Highway I am surprised as the temperature plummets to 17 degrees and heavy clouds unleash the worst rain so far of the trip. Lightning threatens to liven up the ride a little as I tuck in for the wettest day yet but relish the unseasonally low temperatures and blast south towards Port Hedland. I say blast but in reality the rain has brought out many animals to sip the fresh water from puddles next to the road, bringing my speed down. I dodge roos, cattle and peacocks alarmingly. What are they doing out here in the middle of nowhere?

The Sandfire Roadhouse is positioned mid-way. This year it is still with us as many a time it has been wiped off the face of the planet by cyclones. It comes back slightly stronger each time but winds of up to 300 kmh can be difficult to survive. Check the lean angle of the palm trees while you are refuelling.

 As I draw closer to Port Hedland signs warn of blast times as mines close to the road continue to carve out and re-shape the land. Roadtrains grow in length as 4 trailers are towed. Passing 60m of swaying axles takes  commitment of the highest levels. I pause on the right side of the tracks as 5kms of ore carrying train thunders past me. 2 locos up front and 2 more in the middle power it back to Newman for another load as 25 100,000 ton gross bulk carriers a quarter mile long each stand off the port waiting to re-load and carry the vital iron ore to China fueling both their needs and Australias economy.

 This small town is one monstruous engineering project with a few dusty suburbs thrown in its midst, all coated reddy brown by the winds carrying the iron fines from the mountainous stockpiles.

 I feel slightly nostalgic as I ride in. This town gave me my start here in Australia. For 18 months I flew in and out first commissioning then maintaining the huge HBI plant which dominates the skyline. Unfortunately the place is now closed down and awaits dismantling as a few too many of my workmates were killed due to explosions of trapped hydrogen where it wasn’t expected.

 Take time to have a poke about the town, everything is on a mammoth scale and will provide a contrast to the many tourist friendly stopovers enjoyed so far.

Jeffrey Condon

Monkey Mia

Location: Port Hedland

Miles: 4443

Hamersley Range

I leave Port Hedland in more unseasonally cold and wet conditions having dug deep in my rucksack to find some warmer clothing almost forgotten about. The Hamersley ranges loom up from the gloom and are chocolaty brown in the damp dark conditions. Their rocky undulations like the spine of a half buried ancient serpent resting just beneath the surface. It breaks the ride of the last few days and the road weaves around the formations ensuring that roadtrains can still navigate at warp speeds.

 All traffic between here and Newman is of the mining variety. Practically everyone is behind the wheel of a Toyota  with loads of potentially flashing lights and aerials. Various safety equipment neatly arranged on the back and brightly painted.

 I encounter some very large and lumbering heavy loads unfortunately going in my direction. With ore prices still very high there are expansions taking place at several mines in the area. I am down to 1^stgear, unable to get pass and getting hungry, as I had a breakfast stop in mind at Auski Roadhouse 260 kms into my day. This was to be delayed somewhat .

 Breakfast becomes lunch and I continue on into Karijini National Park where some pristine dirt is to be enjoyed. Still slightly damp and with many dips in the road push on cautiously towards the prize for the day.

 I leave the bike in the parking area of Oxers lookout and walk the 300m or so to the edge of the 100m chasm. Here in front of me is astonishing and unexpected. Weano, Red, Joffre and Knox gorges converge below me, deep below. I spy a group of wet suited youths adorned with ropes and harnesses directly below. An adventurous lot they must’ve been.

 I cherish the final 40 kms of dirt which takes me to the western extremity of the park and within striking distance of Tom Price where I eventually pull up outside the tourist information kiosk semi covered in Red dirt like most of my surroundings. I stroll casually, taking my time towards the kiosk letting the towns folk marvel and wonder about this dusty new stranger in town.

 Tom Price belongs to Rio Tinto, the “other” iron ore giant of the region. It is smaller than BHPs Newman on the opposite side of the ranges. Tourist accommodation is non-existant and no matter how hard I try the group will still be rubbing shoulders with miners this evening, choosing words carefully and trying not to provoke a reaction in the bar.

Red Rocks to Reef

The sun reappears to brighten the way west, it warms the back of my neck and the easterly wind spurs me on towards the coast happily. Still deep within the Hamersley range I enjoy the sunny perspective and smile a lot a find myself on another small stretch of well manicured red dirt. No traffic what-so-ever out here and today turns into one of the loneliest. Many a curious cow is stood on the road today keeping speeds sensible, even some roos and emus are about enjoying the peace without the traffic.

 I have the most expensive sandwich of my life in Nanutarra roadhouse, todays only services on route. I speak to Allen who is waiting for BMW roadside assistance to come and change a tyre on his RT. I can imagine the looks on their faces down the telephone line when he calls and mentions where he is. Nanu where??

More remoteness awaits as I press on to the coast to say hello to the Indian Ocean again, an old friend of mine.

 Coral Bay started life as a bar and “recreational” facilities for Americans working at Exmouths spy and tracking station 150kms further north at the other end of Australias longest fringing reef system, Ningaloo.

 Not officially a town, all workers here are transient, most look like part-time fishermen and kite-boarders. There is some reasonable tourist accommodation here and the settlement has a very relaxed feel. The bay itself is ridiculously beautiful and coral can be snorkelled amongst easily within a short swim from shore. If you are up for it, paddling a kayak across the bay to some deeper areas sees you observing reef sharks and playing with green turtles. There is always the glass botton boat option if you are feeling a bit old and worn out after the 10,000 kms approx so far of the tour.

 April and May, (when we will be here) is Whale Shark time. People from all over the world come to swim with these the largest fish in the ocean.


Jeffrey Condon

Roads to Rivers, Western Australia

Location: Broome

Miles: 4065

The last state of the trip and Australias biggest has proved to be tricky when considering the needs of a group coming here during a completely different time of the year. I am here at the very end of the“dry”. Everything is very dry and in much need of a down pour which should arrive very soon. May sees the beginning of the “dry” and there can still be quite high water levels hanging around.

The Adelaide River has been known to flood quite often, stopping everything in its tracks unless it happens to have an outboard motor hanging from its stern. There is a tide mark above the bar from February 1991. Considering the roadhouse is built on the highest ground around, it must’ve been quite a flood. Even the new bridge that was opened last year won’t be of any use the next time they see such levels. Despite regular floods the beer will always get through (see photo). This is of utmost importance down here.  

I have a poke around on the Gibb River road and check out El Questro station. Even now 2 river crossing test my trials riding ability as I bounce off unseen boulders deep within the lengthy crossings. After talking to the station workers I rule this out as a sensible option.  After a couple of days in the region I have decided on the best plan having weighed up risk versus gain and think riders time herewill be thoroughly enjoyed and ridden safely. Multiple crossings of over half a metre and flowing won’t be factored in to the itinerary, especially when these crossings are home to some curious locals with teeth similar in size to their appetites.

Kununurra is situated close to Lake Argyle, a huge inland sea which heads the Ord River scheme, creating vital irrigation for many fruit and crop growing farmers.

Water is not in short supply here as it is in most of Australia, unless you happen to live in Central Victoria right now.

Extremes of weather are the norm. Already I have been stopped in my tracks by deep snow and ice. I’ve battled storms coming off the Bass straight, today saw me crossing rivers and then sweating in the highest temperature of this reccy, a sizzling 41.5. Australia doesn’t do anything by halves. Riders coming down here will quickly learn it isn’t all beer and skittles. You will have earnt that first beer of the evening and it will be instant relief and the days hardships will wither and die.

As I approached the Western Australian coastline for the first time of the trip I noticed the temperature drop considerably which was quite a relief. Humidity was replaced by a refreshing afternoon sea-breeze.                                                                                                    

I’d met Greg the day before as he rode out of Kununurra and I’d tucked in behind him to see how he was travelling. Too slow for me was the answer so I quickly pulled out and left the 2.0L Ultra-Glide Harley in my wake. Remarkably the Harley matched my pace, there wasn’t a lot of cornering and any there are have been designed for road-trains to tackle safely at warp speeds. We swapped a few stories that evening and then continued on towards Broome together.

Derby is a slight diversion of 42kms and has the world’s 2^nd highest tides of 11.7m. It’s worth pulling up to see the jetty and mud-flats at low tide then a cool drink in the small town still gives you time to visit the 1^st West Australian jail in the trunk of a very old Boab tree! The used to pack up to 15 people at a time inside of it through a slit in the side and a guard would stand outside to make sure no-one ran off.  Greg and I stopped for a cool drink at a roadhouse 40kms before Broome when Mathew and Anita rolled in 2-up and heavily loaded on a Trans-Alp.   From England they are on their own RTW journey for the next several years. We all end up on beautiful Cable beach just before sunset.  Fantastic


Jeffrey Condon

Katherine

Location: Katherine

Miles: 3100

I have navigated the 3000 kms that makes up the Stuart Highway. It has brought me into Kakadu National park. An area of pristine natural beauty and also of considerable cultural significance, two attributes giving it good reason to be awarded World Heritage status.

A day off is to be enjoyed here to explore the park. There are a number of must-dos on the list for the park. A Yellow Waters Cruise is a nice way to watch the sunrise and the crocs waking up to position themselves and slowly warm up ready for another day of frightening tourists. The ride out to Ubirr rock to walk among aboriginal cave dwellings adorned with many paintings used to teach and pass on stories to their young. The view over the wetlands is also impressive. Nearby is Cahills Crossing where crocs can easily be viewed from a safe distance as they cruise the river eating Barramundi fish. There really are some large lizards out here in the East Alligator river. The Salt-Water or Estuarine Crocodile is the largest surviving dinosaur on the planet and stopped evolving 200 million years ago as nature couldn’t improve on what is a perfectly adapted killing machine. It is amazing to watch them in such a beautiful setting.  Nourlangie rock has another system of ancient dwellings and much artwork. Nearby Anbangbang billabong is nice for a picnic.

Kakadu has considerable wetlands which will be brimming with life as the group is riding in right at the end of the wet-season. There is excellent bird viewing at Mamukala if we happen to have sometwitchers in the group. Sixty percent of the worlds Magpie Goose population stops in Kakadu on its migration to rest and feed. I think much of that sixty percent just flew over me as I headed out of the park this morning. An impressive sight as they passed overhead in various formations. Luckily they didn’t use me as target practice.

Katherine Gorge can be enjoyed from the comfort of a small cruise boat as it takes you up the Katherine River through several breathtakingly beautiful gorges. Or it is possible to hire a canoe if your arms have any strength left in them after riding the 6623kms so far of this tour.

It is West tomorrow again as there is no more North I can do on this continent. It will be good to be home as Western Australia has been my base for the past 11 years and is very familiar ground.


Jeffrey Condon

Jabiru

Location: Jabiru

Miles: 2988

Rolling north takes me into Coober Pedy late in the afternoon. Most of the towns dwellings are carved out of the soft sandstone which was once the seafloor some 550 million years earlier.  It’s hard to say wether the locals in Coober Pedy decided to live underground because of

(a)    the missile that were being lobbed overhead during trials

(b)   the atomic bombs that were being tested in the neighbourhood

(c)    to mine the opals

 or

(d) all of the above

I suspect a and b lead to the discovery of c but I will let you delve deeper into that mystery when you come down here to ride on this tour.   Whatever the reason it has left a fascinating legacy for the town

Continuing north and then west along the Lasseter highway I arrive in the Red Centre, the heart of Australia and home to Uluru or Ayres Rock. A day is spent here visiting not only the rock but also Kata-Tjuta, which translates to “many heads”, also known as the Olgas. Several walks are available in the National Park. The walk around Ulurus base is popular and at just under 10kms long can take a couple of hours. It is possible to climb Uluru but the traditional owners frown on this as it is quite a sacred site and usually this privilege is reserved for ceremonies

I am growing accustomed to the desert riding and scenery. The GS eats the miles hungrily and is never satisfied. Reluctantly it pulls in to each days destination looking as fresh as when we set off.

Onward to Alice Springs.

 Alice is a real gem of a town grasped firmly by the MacDonnell Ranges which stretch east and west for hundreds of kilometres from the town. Once over 3000m high 450 million years of erosion has left these some of the oldest rocks on the planet standing at a mere 6-700m. Some interesting features carved out along their length are worth exploring, such as Standley Chasm, Serpentine Gorge and Simpsons Gap. All within easy reach from Alice Springs.

Australia is home to 9 out of the worlds 10 most venomous snakes. One of these I found sunbathing on the centre line today as I bimbled along admiring termite mounds and contemplating my own naval. The GS is certainly bulletproof so I quickly decided that the Rally-pro suit I was wearing must be snake-proof. Clad head to toe in my tough BMW suit I barely hesitated to stop the bike and head off in chase of the un-identified serpent hoping to caress and admire it from closer quarters. Perhaps even a photo of the 2 of us sharing an embrace. Alas it quickly gave me the slip and slithered into the undergrowth with well practised ease, considering it doesn’t have legs.

 Tonight I find myself deep in cattle country but strangely eating lamb-chops. The constant flow of roadtrains tripled decked and three trailered  must be negotiated with extreme care. The rear trailer often weaves sideways 2 or 3m at a time, the driver oblivious. Then there is the yellowy green mist or rain that can leave you smelling quite unpleasant and wondering why you are alone at the bar at the end of the days ride.

Renner Springs is an outpost and at the heart of yet another cattle station the size of a small European country. Roadtrains pull in for the night, their drivers who have obviously been hard at it all day require steaks like doorsteps to maintain their barrel like figures. Some basic accommodation will be enjoyed by the group here where Australians can be observed in their natural environment but kept at an arms length.

 Renner Springs is also considered the marker for the Top End. North of here you will enjoy one of 2 seasons, wet or dry. The wet has come early it seems. Fluffy white cumulus clouds grow heavy and grey as the day draws on, eventually losing the battle to keep all that moisture aloft and administering a healthy downpour that is to be cherished.

 The rain mixes well with the dry surrounds and produces a sweet aroma, strong and delicious, wasted on the Grey Nomads travelling by 4x4 and dragging their washing machines and microwaves in white boxes behind them.

 It changes, everything is growing, trees, termite mounds, the temperature, the price of  fuel. I spy my first Boab tree of the trip. With their wine bottle shaped trunk they are easily recognised and very unique. In Africa they are known as Baobab. With the growth all about the number of animals increases and several species can be found dead and being eaten by the side of the road. The Golden Wedgetail Eagle is the size of a three year old child and reluctant to be disturbed during lunch, leaving it to the last second to fly off as I close in on them, making for some extreme close-ups during ducking and swerving manoeuvres.

 A number of brown signs point out WWII airstrips. I find myself following one in to Daly Waters, the top ends oldest aerodrome. No longer used it has been preserved and houses a number of informative billboards explaining its history. Amy Johnson landed here after an epic solo flight from England in 1930.

 While I shuffled through the old radio room reading the various accounts of heroism the GS waited patiently in the hangar feeling confused and perplexed but strangely comfortable. To confuse it even more I sped down the sealed runway at warp speed, it is 5kms long, I didn’t take off but the bike felt sure it could.

A Barra burger was enjoyed for lunch at the old pub not far away. Its interior adorned with many a bra and panty, not always matching. Also old flip-flops, caps, number plates, money and an old helicopter are mounted hap-hazardly for diners to marvel at and photograph (or sniff).

 Another old pub was visited, this one purely a museum and without tacky adornments but built cleverly from bits of old windmill. Many newpaper clippings in a glass case tell of  “Australias last great cattle drive” which took place in 1988 as part of bicentenary celebrations. They pushed that mob from here to Longreach nearly 2000 kms away. “The cattle were slowly stringing as Clancy rode behind them singing, a drovers life is full of pleasures that town folk will never know”

 I washed the dust off after my days ride in Matarankas thermal spring. Set amongst many tall palms, it is an oasis and at a constant 34 degrees hard to drag yourself out of to get on with your daily chores. A night will be spent here by the group where you can share your dinner with the wallabies that come in of an evening.

Jeffrey Condon