Coral Bay

Location: Coral Bay

Miles: 4950

Broome came about during the 1880s after the discovery of  Pinctada Maximus, a very large oyster the size of a dinner plate and the origin of  Mother of Pearl which was used to make buttons in the 1800s.

 The Japanese came here with the diving technology needed to harvest the shell and in the early days were towed underwater behind old sail powered Pearling Luggers. Some of these vessels are on display in the town. Eventually the shell needed to be farmed and its potential for growing pearls recognised. Still today it is the main industry for the town and a couple of months harvesting pearls was enjoyed by myself some 11 years ago.

The town is also well known as the gate-way to the Kimberley and the intrepid head off into this wild un-tamed area with their 4x4s and dinghys in tow. Cable Beach is another main attraction and the climate year round makes it good anytime for a dip or laze in the sun admiring the other attractions.

 Not surprisingly it has taken me 4 days to properly explore and research to ensure the group will make the best of their time here and have the knowledge to do so. If they think more than one night should have been spent here, do not fear as we have something a bit special further south, without the crowds.

Continuing south along the Great Northern Highway I am surprised as the temperature plummets to 17 degrees and heavy clouds unleash the worst rain so far of the trip. Lightning threatens to liven up the ride a little as I tuck in for the wettest day yet but relish the unseasonally low temperatures and blast south towards Port Hedland. I say blast but in reality the rain has brought out many animals to sip the fresh water from puddles next to the road, bringing my speed down. I dodge roos, cattle and peacocks alarmingly. What are they doing out here in the middle of nowhere?

The Sandfire Roadhouse is positioned mid-way. This year it is still with us as many a time it has been wiped off the face of the planet by cyclones. It comes back slightly stronger each time but winds of up to 300 kmh can be difficult to survive. Check the lean angle of the palm trees while you are refuelling.

 As I draw closer to Port Hedland signs warn of blast times as mines close to the road continue to carve out and re-shape the land. Roadtrains grow in length as 4 trailers are towed. Passing 60m of swaying axles takes  commitment of the highest levels. I pause on the right side of the tracks as 5kms of ore carrying train thunders past me. 2 locos up front and 2 more in the middle power it back to Newman for another load as 25 100,000 ton gross bulk carriers a quarter mile long each stand off the port waiting to re-load and carry the vital iron ore to China fueling both their needs and Australias economy.

 This small town is one monstruous engineering project with a few dusty suburbs thrown in its midst, all coated reddy brown by the winds carrying the iron fines from the mountainous stockpiles.

 I feel slightly nostalgic as I ride in. This town gave me my start here in Australia. For 18 months I flew in and out first commissioning then maintaining the huge HBI plant which dominates the skyline. Unfortunately the place is now closed down and awaits dismantling as a few too many of my workmates were killed due to explosions of trapped hydrogen where it wasn’t expected.

 Take time to have a poke about the town, everything is on a mammoth scale and will provide a contrast to the many tourist friendly stopovers enjoyed so far.

Jeffrey Condon