Jabiru

Location: Jabiru

Miles: 2988

Rolling north takes me into Coober Pedy late in the afternoon. Most of the towns dwellings are carved out of the soft sandstone which was once the seafloor some 550 million years earlier.  It’s hard to say wether the locals in Coober Pedy decided to live underground because of

(a)    the missile that were being lobbed overhead during trials

(b)   the atomic bombs that were being tested in the neighbourhood

(c)    to mine the opals

 or

(d) all of the above

I suspect a and b lead to the discovery of c but I will let you delve deeper into that mystery when you come down here to ride on this tour.   Whatever the reason it has left a fascinating legacy for the town

Continuing north and then west along the Lasseter highway I arrive in the Red Centre, the heart of Australia and home to Uluru or Ayres Rock. A day is spent here visiting not only the rock but also Kata-Tjuta, which translates to “many heads”, also known as the Olgas. Several walks are available in the National Park. The walk around Ulurus base is popular and at just under 10kms long can take a couple of hours. It is possible to climb Uluru but the traditional owners frown on this as it is quite a sacred site and usually this privilege is reserved for ceremonies

I am growing accustomed to the desert riding and scenery. The GS eats the miles hungrily and is never satisfied. Reluctantly it pulls in to each days destination looking as fresh as when we set off.

Onward to Alice Springs.

 Alice is a real gem of a town grasped firmly by the MacDonnell Ranges which stretch east and west for hundreds of kilometres from the town. Once over 3000m high 450 million years of erosion has left these some of the oldest rocks on the planet standing at a mere 6-700m. Some interesting features carved out along their length are worth exploring, such as Standley Chasm, Serpentine Gorge and Simpsons Gap. All within easy reach from Alice Springs.

Australia is home to 9 out of the worlds 10 most venomous snakes. One of these I found sunbathing on the centre line today as I bimbled along admiring termite mounds and contemplating my own naval. The GS is certainly bulletproof so I quickly decided that the Rally-pro suit I was wearing must be snake-proof. Clad head to toe in my tough BMW suit I barely hesitated to stop the bike and head off in chase of the un-identified serpent hoping to caress and admire it from closer quarters. Perhaps even a photo of the 2 of us sharing an embrace. Alas it quickly gave me the slip and slithered into the undergrowth with well practised ease, considering it doesn’t have legs.

 Tonight I find myself deep in cattle country but strangely eating lamb-chops. The constant flow of roadtrains tripled decked and three trailered  must be negotiated with extreme care. The rear trailer often weaves sideways 2 or 3m at a time, the driver oblivious. Then there is the yellowy green mist or rain that can leave you smelling quite unpleasant and wondering why you are alone at the bar at the end of the days ride.

Renner Springs is an outpost and at the heart of yet another cattle station the size of a small European country. Roadtrains pull in for the night, their drivers who have obviously been hard at it all day require steaks like doorsteps to maintain their barrel like figures. Some basic accommodation will be enjoyed by the group here where Australians can be observed in their natural environment but kept at an arms length.

 Renner Springs is also considered the marker for the Top End. North of here you will enjoy one of 2 seasons, wet or dry. The wet has come early it seems. Fluffy white cumulus clouds grow heavy and grey as the day draws on, eventually losing the battle to keep all that moisture aloft and administering a healthy downpour that is to be cherished.

 The rain mixes well with the dry surrounds and produces a sweet aroma, strong and delicious, wasted on the Grey Nomads travelling by 4x4 and dragging their washing machines and microwaves in white boxes behind them.

 It changes, everything is growing, trees, termite mounds, the temperature, the price of  fuel. I spy my first Boab tree of the trip. With their wine bottle shaped trunk they are easily recognised and very unique. In Africa they are known as Baobab. With the growth all about the number of animals increases and several species can be found dead and being eaten by the side of the road. The Golden Wedgetail Eagle is the size of a three year old child and reluctant to be disturbed during lunch, leaving it to the last second to fly off as I close in on them, making for some extreme close-ups during ducking and swerving manoeuvres.

 A number of brown signs point out WWII airstrips. I find myself following one in to Daly Waters, the top ends oldest aerodrome. No longer used it has been preserved and houses a number of informative billboards explaining its history. Amy Johnson landed here after an epic solo flight from England in 1930.

 While I shuffled through the old radio room reading the various accounts of heroism the GS waited patiently in the hangar feeling confused and perplexed but strangely comfortable. To confuse it even more I sped down the sealed runway at warp speed, it is 5kms long, I didn’t take off but the bike felt sure it could.

A Barra burger was enjoyed for lunch at the old pub not far away. Its interior adorned with many a bra and panty, not always matching. Also old flip-flops, caps, number plates, money and an old helicopter are mounted hap-hazardly for diners to marvel at and photograph (or sniff).

 Another old pub was visited, this one purely a museum and without tacky adornments but built cleverly from bits of old windmill. Many newpaper clippings in a glass case tell of  “Australias last great cattle drive” which took place in 1988 as part of bicentenary celebrations. They pushed that mob from here to Longreach nearly 2000 kms away. “The cattle were slowly stringing as Clancy rode behind them singing, a drovers life is full of pleasures that town folk will never know”

 I washed the dust off after my days ride in Matarankas thermal spring. Set amongst many tall palms, it is an oasis and at a constant 34 degrees hard to drag yourself out of to get on with your daily chores. A night will be spent here by the group where you can share your dinner with the wallabies that come in of an evening.

Jeffrey Condon