Monkey Mia

Location: Port Hedland

Miles: 4443

Hamersley Range

I leave Port Hedland in more unseasonally cold and wet conditions having dug deep in my rucksack to find some warmer clothing almost forgotten about. The Hamersley ranges loom up from the gloom and are chocolaty brown in the damp dark conditions. Their rocky undulations like the spine of a half buried ancient serpent resting just beneath the surface. It breaks the ride of the last few days and the road weaves around the formations ensuring that roadtrains can still navigate at warp speeds.

 All traffic between here and Newman is of the mining variety. Practically everyone is behind the wheel of a Toyota  with loads of potentially flashing lights and aerials. Various safety equipment neatly arranged on the back and brightly painted.

 I encounter some very large and lumbering heavy loads unfortunately going in my direction. With ore prices still very high there are expansions taking place at several mines in the area. I am down to 1^stgear, unable to get pass and getting hungry, as I had a breakfast stop in mind at Auski Roadhouse 260 kms into my day. This was to be delayed somewhat .

 Breakfast becomes lunch and I continue on into Karijini National Park where some pristine dirt is to be enjoyed. Still slightly damp and with many dips in the road push on cautiously towards the prize for the day.

 I leave the bike in the parking area of Oxers lookout and walk the 300m or so to the edge of the 100m chasm. Here in front of me is astonishing and unexpected. Weano, Red, Joffre and Knox gorges converge below me, deep below. I spy a group of wet suited youths adorned with ropes and harnesses directly below. An adventurous lot they must’ve been.

 I cherish the final 40 kms of dirt which takes me to the western extremity of the park and within striking distance of Tom Price where I eventually pull up outside the tourist information kiosk semi covered in Red dirt like most of my surroundings. I stroll casually, taking my time towards the kiosk letting the towns folk marvel and wonder about this dusty new stranger in town.

 Tom Price belongs to Rio Tinto, the “other” iron ore giant of the region. It is smaller than BHPs Newman on the opposite side of the ranges. Tourist accommodation is non-existant and no matter how hard I try the group will still be rubbing shoulders with miners this evening, choosing words carefully and trying not to provoke a reaction in the bar.

Red Rocks to Reef

The sun reappears to brighten the way west, it warms the back of my neck and the easterly wind spurs me on towards the coast happily. Still deep within the Hamersley range I enjoy the sunny perspective and smile a lot a find myself on another small stretch of well manicured red dirt. No traffic what-so-ever out here and today turns into one of the loneliest. Many a curious cow is stood on the road today keeping speeds sensible, even some roos and emus are about enjoying the peace without the traffic.

 I have the most expensive sandwich of my life in Nanutarra roadhouse, todays only services on route. I speak to Allen who is waiting for BMW roadside assistance to come and change a tyre on his RT. I can imagine the looks on their faces down the telephone line when he calls and mentions where he is. Nanu where??

More remoteness awaits as I press on to the coast to say hello to the Indian Ocean again, an old friend of mine.

 Coral Bay started life as a bar and “recreational” facilities for Americans working at Exmouths spy and tracking station 150kms further north at the other end of Australias longest fringing reef system, Ningaloo.

 Not officially a town, all workers here are transient, most look like part-time fishermen and kite-boarders. There is some reasonable tourist accommodation here and the settlement has a very relaxed feel. The bay itself is ridiculously beautiful and coral can be snorkelled amongst easily within a short swim from shore. If you are up for it, paddling a kayak across the bay to some deeper areas sees you observing reef sharks and playing with green turtles. There is always the glass botton boat option if you are feeling a bit old and worn out after the 10,000 kms approx so far of the tour.

 April and May, (when we will be here) is Whale Shark time. People from all over the world come to swim with these the largest fish in the ocean.


Jeffrey Condon